Cabinet Painting & Refinishing – Burlingame, CA

We refinish kitchen uppers, lowers, islands, and pantry cabinets. We also do bathroom vanities and built-in shelving or hutches. In Burlingame's older craftsman and Tudor revival homes, that usually means raised-panel oak or painted wood cabinets with original hardware that we label and protect. In Easton-edge custom homes you're more likely to see larger frameless or shaker-style boxes. We handle both. Bath vanities in older Burlingame bungalows are often small single-sink units — we refinish those the same way as kitchen uppers, full prep and spray finish.

We remove every door and drawer, label each piece so hardware goes back in the right spot, and lightly sand and degloss the box frames in place with dust containment around the workspace. Doors and drawer fronts are sprayed off-site or in a mobile spray booth on-site for a factory-level finish. We use SW Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel or BM Advance as our top-coat systems, with INSL-X Cabinet Coat or SW Extreme Bond as bonding primer on slick or previously painted surfaces. For Burlingame homes built before 1978 — which covers most of the bungalow and early Tudor stock — we follow EPA RRP lead-paint protocol before any sanding begins.

Satin is the most common call in Burlingame kitchens — it's easy to wipe down and doesn't throw harsh light in rooms with older trim profiles and smaller windows. Semi-gloss works well in bathrooms where moisture resistance matters more. In the craftsman and bungalow neighborhoods around Burlingame Ave and Howard, we see a lot of warm off-whites and creamy whites that work with the original wood trim. Easton-edge homes tend toward cooler bright whites or soft grays that read cleaner under modern recessed lighting. We'll match whatever direction you're going.

Door and drawer count is the biggest variable — a small galley kitchen in a downtown bungalow has far fewer pieces than a large Hillsborough-edge kitchen with full-height pantry cabinets. Wood species and existing finish condition matter too: solid oak in good shape preps faster than MDF with peeling thermofoil. A full color change (light to dark or vice versa) adds a primer coat. If you want to keep existing hardware, that saves time. Pre-1978 homes that need EPA RRP lead-paint protocol add scope to the prep phase.

We've refinished 1920s craftsman kitchens in the downtown bungalow grid where original raised-panel oak got a sprayed off-white satin and the hardware was stripped, cleaned, and reinstalled. On the Easton edge we've worked on larger Tudor revival kitchens where original 1930s glass-front cabinets needed bonding primer over old shellac before the finish coat went on. We've also done bath vanity refinishes in older Burlingame row homes where the existing factory finish had worn through around the sink rim.